This is probably the most self-righteous-sounding thing I’ve ever written; however, I asked all of the French fashion people I could reach over the course of three months, which U.K. brand(s) they respected. Why would we care what the French think? Honestly, I’ve been attempting to determine which pieces are worth spending money on since I have an embarrassingly small graphic designer salary. Therefore, if a particular item can impress those who essentially created ‘chic’, then it’s likely worth figuring out.
Everything started when I was looking through my Instagram (naturally procrastinating on a logo project), and I saw a French influencer wearing what appeared to be an extremely high-end minimalist coat. Turns out it was Margaret Howell, which I had never heard of (despite being from Britain). That led me to wonder — what other U.K. brands am I entirely missing simply because I’m so busy scouring the clearance section of Zara?
I began sending messages to various French fashion editors, stylists and buyers via both their Instagram direct message functions as well as LinkedIn (whatever works), etc. The majority of them ignored me (which is understandable); however, enough did respond that I began to develop a fairly interesting picture of which British brands have achieved success in France vs. the British brands that we believe are successful globally but are not.
One of the first things that became crystal clear: The French absolutely detest anything with heavy logos. They absolutely detest it. One Galeries Lafayette buyer informed me that she can tell whether or not a British tourist is within a city block based solely upon their heavy branding. She further stated that “French women purchase brands based on quality, not to market themselves”, which honestly made me reflect upon my Uniqlo tote bag situation.
Burberry popped up repeatedly during my conversations with the French. However, it was not as expected. No one mentioned the checkered pattern, which apparently screams tourist to them. As opposed to that, they’re absolutely enamored with the trenchcoats and more understated runway offerings. A “good trenchcoat is similar to a good pair of jeans,” this Paris-based stylist informed me. “You purchase it once and wear it for twenty years.” Given my current state of affairs (my coat currently comes from Target and has lost its waterproof coating), perhaps I should pay closer attention to her advice.
Sustainability was enormous as well. Stella McCartney came up repeatedly due to the fact that she used to design for Chloe so French women were familiar with her designs; however, primarily because she does not use animal products in her clothing line and therefore it does not appear as if she is advocating for crunchy granola lifestyles. “She demonstrates that you can be ethically conscious without appearing as if you shop at health food stores,” one editor stated, which honestly reflects my entire challenge related to sustainable fashion.
What completely surprised me was how much the French adore Margaret Howell. I had never heard of her prior to beginning this research, which makes me feel embarrassed as a bad fashion person. Apparently she is massive in France due to the fact that her designs consist of perfect basic garments in top-of-the-line materials. Think simple button-down shirts and pants, but made of cotton material that appears luxurious when touched. “She understands that luxury is reflected in the quality of the material, not the design itself,” someone advised me, which is a French sentiment; yet, it is also quite brilliant.
The French fascination with Dr. Martens was another shock. You would assume that they would find them too bulky for Parisian style, but apparently French women enjoy wearing them with cute dresses and skirts. Essentially, they are doing a variation of combining high end and low end styles; however, as opposed to combining expensive and inexpensive items, they are combining cute/feminine and tough styles. In fact, I attempted this concept after completing my research — I wore my older Doc Marten boots with a thrift store slip dress — and received far more compliments than normal, thus possibly they are onto something.
Vivienne Westwood came up many times as well; which is understandable when you consider the fact that the French view fashion as an art form and her designs are essentially wearable sculptures. Additionally, she has the entire punk meets historical aesthetic vibe going on that may appeal to individuals who view fashion as possessing intellectual substance. Although I cannot afford true Westwood (obviously), I located some punk-inspired pieces at second-hand stores that somewhat capture the spirit of Westwood.
Alexander McQueen was also brought up frequently; specifically referring to his Sarah Burton era. Apparently Lee McQueen was almost too extreme for French women’s daily attire; however, Burton’s versions strike a perfect balance between drama and wearability. “It’s fashion, not a costume,” one buyer explained, which I take as a compliment.
The beauty side was intriguing as well. Charlotte Tilbury has seemingly convinced French women to abandon their beloved pharmacy products (and again, this is difficult to fathom as they seem to be obsessed with simplicity). Nevertheless, her Pillow Talk lipstick is ubiquitous in Paris due to the fact that it is unobtrusive enough to be perceived as effortless yet opulent enough to be considered extravagant. I actually purchased it after hearing about it numerous times (hello, goodbye coffee budget for the week) and understand why they are enamored with it – it is like having your lips but improved upon, which is very French.
COS came up repeatedly regardless of the fact that it is technically Swedish. The London design group creates an atmosphere associated with Britishness, I suppose. French women admire COS due to the fact that the silhouettes are correct and it does not scream fast-fashion, although it is relatively inexpensive. “It’s what Zara wants to be,” someone told me, which honestly may be the most descriptive phrase regarding COS.
Perhaps most revealing was which British brands were not referenced. Our largest high street brands that control all of our major shopping centers were barely noted by the French people I spoke to. Apparently they view them as too trendy, too heavily branded or too overtly fast-fashion-oriented. “British High Street attempts too hard,” one editor said. “We prefer brands that are certain of who/what they are.”
The research process also forced me to reconsider my shopping methods. Prior to commencing this research, I had focused on identifying affordable versions of whatever was trending on Instagram; however, the French method involves purchasing fewer better-quality pieces that complement each other. Obviously that sounds like a utopian fantasy for someone operating on a shoestring budget; however, merely selecting better-quality basics when feasible has merit.
I commenced searching for Margaret Howell pieces on The Real Real and other resale sites (again – still cannot afford retail prices). Located a cotton shirt for roughly what I would normally spend on three Zara shirts; and the differences in quality are astonishing. The cotton feels dense/heavy/thick and the stitches are flawless; furthermore, it looks significantly more expensive than all of the remaining items in my wardrobe combined.
The discovery regarding trench coats has instilled in me a desire to save for a secondhand Burberry (which feels preposterous given my usual shopping practices). Yet, if I am going to commit financially to a single premium-priced item, something that I will be able to wear for decades represents a logical choice relative to whatever trendy item will appear outdated shortly thereafter. Apparently French women continue to wear their original trench coats from the 1980s; which provides context for my fast-fashion addiction.
In addition to reviewing each British brand’s website and seeing which ones are sold in upscale French stores; I also started paying attention to which British brands were offered by fancy French department stores like Net-A-Porter and Matches Fashion ship to France and offer a variety of the brands that I had previously overlooked.
Another aspect that has remained with me concerning sustainability – the people I communicated with were not necessarily purchasing ethical brands in order to save the planet; they were purchasing them because slow-fashion generally implies higher-quality and more thoughtfully-designed product. It’s as if their selectivity regarding fashion coincidentally corresponds with greater sustainability.
Church’s Shoes came up several times and every time they were referenced in such reverence. “British Leather Goods are the Best in the World” Multiple people expressed this opinion to me. Obviously I cannot afford Church’s (one shoe costs more than my weekly grocery bill), but researching better-quality footwear options when feasible has provided me with an additional objective.
Overall – the entire project has caused me to perceive fashion differently. Rather than questioning “Is this Trendy?”, or “Will this Look Good On Instagram?”, I now ask “Will This Still Be Stylish in Five Years?”, and “Does This Represent Quality Enough To Justify The Price Tag?”. It’s almost as if I’ve developed a subconscious French approach towards evaluating my purchases.
Additionally – conducting this research has helped me to better appreciate British fashion. We possess an impressive heritage of craftsmanship and innovation that I had taken for granted while pursuing what I believed was trendy – i.e., copying whatever American Influencers were wearing.
While I was concentrating on creating affordable replicas of whatever American Influencers were sporting, there were these fantastic UK Brands producing exceptional quality long-lasting merchandise beneath my radar.
As stated above – obviously I still cannot afford most of the brands that these French fashion experts admire. However, learning what constitutes an investment worthy product has dramatically influenced how I shop – even at my typical budget-conscious retailers. When I shop – I look for better-quality fabrics – cleaner lines – and products that feel substantial rather than flimsy. It’s almost as if I have developed an objective framework for making wiser purchasing decisions.
Ultimately – this experience has taught me that fashion does not have to be centered around continuously adhering to trends or perpetually purchasing new merchandise. The French Method of purchasing fewer better-quality products that combine seamlessly with each other offers an alternate model – particularly relevant for individuals operating on limited budgets. Purchasing quality basic items that endure for years is less expensive per usage than continually replacing low-cost trend products.
Furthermore – there is something gratifying about knowing that the few premium-priced items you own would receive approval from some of the world’s most discerning fashion connoisseurs. Even if you are still purchasing mostly second-hand items and sale merchandise – now you know what to save for when you can finally afford to purchase something special
