There’s that moment every October – generally while I’m waiting for a bus to arrive, getting absolutely drenched because I stupidly thought a denim jacket would be enough to get me through another month – that I inevitably surrender and pull out my winter coat. You know the one. It’s probably been sitting in the back of my closet since March; it likely still smells a little bit like cheap wine I spilled at my friend’s holiday party last year. Alongside that coat is its faithful sidekick ; my boots that have endured me through numerous Portland winters, puddle splashing, and those mornings when I’m running behind schedule and can’t be bothered to check whether it’s actually waterproof outside.
Last Tuesday was that exact moment for me. After three days of convincing myself my thrifted blazer was “perfectly fine” for 45 degrees (spoiler alert: it wasn’t), my weather app finally broke me with its wall of rain clouds and temperatures that made me want to burrow under the blankets and sleep. So, I shuffled to my closet, brushed aside the hopeful summer dresses I had been holding onto, and pulled out my trusty black wool coat – a lucky find from Crossroads Trading two years ago that cost me forty dollars and somehow still manages to appear somewhat presentable after a couple years of constant wear.
Next to it sat my go-to pair of black Chelsea boots, the ones I saved up for from Everlane during their brief sale season after learning the hard way that purchasing cheap boots in Portland is essentially pouring money directly into puddles. As I headed to my bus stop the next morning, properly wrapped for the first time in weeks, I couldn’t help but notice something peculiar ; I wasn’t the only one doing this. At least six other women at the stop were wearing roughly the same combination: some iteration of a dark wool coat paired with durable ankle boots. Different budgets, different retailers, but the same basic survival strategy.
At that point, it clicked. We’d all solved the same equation without discussing it. One fairly decent coat + one good pair of actually water-resistant boots = you’ll survive winter without losing yourself to desperation. It’s not rocket science, however when you’re working with limited funds and require clothing that can endure real weather conditions, it becomes an unspoken rule that simply makes sense.
Since then, I’ve often reflected upon this formula ; particularly after observing how my coworker Emma executed the perfect solution. She’s rocking a navy blue coat that reaches mid-thigh. I’m positive it was purchased at Banana Republic during one of their 40% discount events. Alongside it she has these massive black boots that look clumsy but somehow give her an air of having stepped out of a hip European film. Meanwhile, my upstairs neighbor is sporting a camel-hued coat (undoubtedly second-hand; I saw similar styles at Buffalo Exchange) along with combat-style boots that add a very carefree, effortless element to her entire aesthetic.
One of the wonderful aspects of this coat and boots combination is that it’s nearly impossible to mess up once you figure it out. However, what took me years to learn: this isn’t merely about having any coat and any boots. This is about having the correct coat and boots for your actual life, your actual budget and your actual style. I learned this the hard way through a string of expensive mistakes in my early twenties.
My first "serious" winter coat was this short-length burgundy wool number I purchased at Nordstrom Rack for what seemed like an outrageous sum at the time — approximately $150; huge for me back then. I thought I was such a genius for investing in quality. Unfortunately, it was this weird cropped length that didn’t complement anything else in my wardrobe and the color was so specific that it clashed with roughly half of my wardrobe. I wore it precisely one winter before it morphed into my "running to the grocery store" coat.
Then there was the boot debacle of 2019. I scored these incredible tan leather ankle boots at Target for thirty bucks and told myself they’d be fine. They looked amazing for about three weeks ; until the first serious rain storm hit and I realized they were nothing more than decorations. Rainwater poured through them, the sole began separating and by January they were barely staying together with nothing more than hope and sheer willpower. This is when I learned that some things are indeed worth saving up for ; even when you’re financially strapped.
Currently, my approach is much more calculated. I have my everyday black wool coat that matches virtually every article of clothing in my closet. It cost me forty dollars and has thus far survived two full winters. For boots, I spent money upfront for one seriously solid pair of waterproof Chelsea boots that have proven to be worth each and every penny. That’s it ; two articles of clothing that meet approximately 90 percent of my needs throughout the winter season.
However, here’s where it gets exciting: possessing the base formula doesn’t necessarily equate boredom. I have begun attempting various methods to create newness without spending money I do not possess ; creating what amounts to a fun challenge that utilizes the same problem solving section of my brain I utilize at work.
Color is obviously one method to generate newness. Most people opt for black, navy or camel coats (versatile and functional). Lately, however, I have begun paying attention to women who choose unique colors that may be bold yet still complement everything else in their wardrobe. There is a woman on my morning commute who wears the most beautiful forest green coat with brown boots and it looks so much more intriguing than your average black uniform. When my current coat eventually dies, I am planning on selecting something in either rich burgundy or deep olive; colors that seem exclusive yet still match my remaining wardrobe.
Using your belt to create definition is also an incredibly valuable method of generating interest in your overall look that requires no financial expenditure. Rather than utilizing whichever pathetic belt was included with the coat (if any), I have started using belts from my typical clothing to cinch and define the waistline of my coat. My preferred belt is this wide black leather belt I obtained at a thrift store which completely transforms both the silhouette of my coat and adds an aura of premium quality and intentionality.
Lastly, I have been testing proportions in terms of styling lately ; although it sounds pretentious, it essentially means wearing unusual combinations. Rather than pairing my slim-fitting pants with my streamlined coat, I have started wearing this same coat with wide legged thrifted pants and chunky boots. This creates a modern shape and style to the same old coat.
In terms of scarves, you can develop originality without breaking the bank. I acquired this oversized rust colored scarf at a vintage store for eight dollars. It entirely modifies how my black coat appears. Some times I wear it loose, other times I wrap it around my body as part of my coat rather than as a separate layer. Essentially, I’m receiving three different coats for the price of one single accessory.
What has fundamentally altered my perspective is beginning to regard my coat as part of the actual outfit ; not just something I throw over clothes and immediately remove. Recently, I have begun choosing what I intend to wear under my clothing based on how it will look with my coat partially open or zipped shut. The vintage band tee peeking out at just the right angle above the collar line, or the midi dress whose hem falls at precisely the right spot below my coat ; these are no longer coincidences.
This reasoning clearly holds true when viewed from a larger context. In Portland, I’m wearing my coat for roughly six months annually. Therefore, logically speaking, why wouldn’t I want it to be representative of my own personal aesthetic rather than merely serve as protection from inclement weather? When you invest in fewer higher-quality pieces due to financial constraints, perhaps they might as well be items you truly enjoy.
The process has also taken on an increased level of complexity regarding footwear. Historically, I believed you required different boots for different occasions. However, recently I have come to realize that a single excellent pair of boots could be utilized in far more circumstances than anticipated. My black Chelsea boots function with everything from jeans and sweaters to dresses and tights. They are sufficiently water resistant to withstand actual inclement weather while remaining stylish enough that I won’t resemble someone preparing for a hike when wearing them to work.
I have been studying how other women combine similar elements to create different interpretations, and there are these subtle nuances ; knotting a scarf differently, incorporating an additional pop of color via accessories, etcetera ; which ultimately provide sufficient variation in the overall appearance of your practical uniform.
My friend Sarah does this where she wears extremely feminine dresses combined with her rugged lace-up boots & structured coat. It shouldn’t work yet it generates a cool opposing force between pretty and practical that seems purposeful. On the flip side, my colleague Jake (yes this formula functions for men too) wears his woolen coat with worn-out sneakers instead of dress shoes and produces a relaxed creative image fitting his personality.
Perhaps the greatest advantage gained from understanding this formula is the amount of mental energy it frees up. No longer do I stand in front of my closet each morning trying to determine how to remain warm and relatively attractive ; I simply grab my coat & boots and concentrate on adding those minor nuances that produce an intentional aspect to my appearance.
For example: today’s scarf selection? Do I wear it belted or unbelted? What is that singular pop of color that will allow this to feel new?
As I type this now, rain has resumed falling from the sky above my apartment window and I can already envision tomorrow’s routine taking place ; grabbing my trusty black wool coat & boots which are now as habitual as brushing my teeth. However, as opposed to viewing myself as being stuck in some monotonous outfit, I’m actually excited about determining how to transform it into something new. Perhaps today’s rust scarf? Or maybe yesterday’s vintage belt? Or possibly tonight’s burgundy lip color that creates this sense of intentionality in everything else?
