It shouldn’t make any noise when you put it on. You should notice the line of a great overcoat first, before anything else; how it sits effortlessly across the shoulders without pulling or gaping at the collar, how it falls in one clean movement rather than bunching inconveniently at the hip. Wool, or a wool blend with heft to it, will always win the day over something light and slippery, as a coat that feels cheap in your hands will always look cheap on your body however impeccably it’s cut. Study the lapel as well. A thick but structured lapel with some real roll to it will speak volumes about the care put into it, whereas a thin, limp lapel will ruin the whole coat by making it look like an afterthought.
Its length matters more than most give it credit for.
Below the knee gives your coat presence, works wonders over tailoring – creating length and drama in an otherwise pared-back outfit. Just above or on the knee is a more forgiving, practical length that’s easier to move in and comfortably layer underneath. Shorter, cropped versions can work too, though only if the fit is spot on all over—anything too short will usually look like it happened accidentally, rather than as a result of careful consideration.
Because a beautiful overcoat should accommodate everything underneath it. How it fits you when you throw a jumper and trousers underneath should feel as comfortable as wearing it over a shirt and skirt, which is why the fit should have some give through the chest and sleeve, not just be tailored specifically to the measurements of your body. Belt it if it comes with a belt. Don’t leave the belt hanging useless – it creates the shape that has you reaching for that style over others in the first place.
Go double breasted for more formal affairs (they’re fantastic for client meetings and weddings in the cooler months), but day-to-day our favourite is a single breasted, notch lapel coat that works with everything from jeans to suits to… pretty much anything else you can think of. As far as colours go, take it easy. Camel, charcoal, navy and black will outlive every passing fad colour by about three winters, and this isn’t somewhere to be penny-pinching on cloth. When it’s mastered, layering with an overcoat becomes about finishing off an outfit, not just hiding it. It’s perfect for the commute, for travel, for those evenings that start off indoors but always seem to end up somewhere colder.
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