I owned four blue denim jackets by the time I was twenty five, and three of them were wrong. Too boxy, too pale, one with a wash so dark and stiff it could have stood up on its own in the corner of my room. It took an embarrassingly long time to work out what actually makes one worth wearing, so let’s save you the four attempts.

The wash matters more than anything else on the hanger. A mid blue with a bit of fade at the seams and the pocket edges reads as lived in rather than new, and that’s the whole point of a denim jacket, it’s meant to look like it’s already had a life before you bought it. Go too pale and it tips into stonewashed nightmare territory.

Go too dark and it just behaves like a normal jacket, all the personality gone. The fit is the other thing worth actually thinking about, not agonising over. Cropped and boxy works if you’re wearing it open over something with a bit of movement underneath. A longer, slightly more structured cut earns its keep as something you can button all the way up and wear like a proper jacket, not just a layer you forgot to take off.

Where it actually pulls weight is in the styling around it, because a denim jacket is only ever as good as what’s fighting it for attention.

Worn over a slip dress it stops things looking too dressed, too try hard. Thrown over a plain jumper and trousers it does the opposite job entirely, adding texture to something that was starting to look a bit flat. It’s genuinely one of the only jackets that will sit happily over a floral print and a plain black tee in the same week without either outfit feeling like a mistake.

Occasion wise, this isn’t your black tie stand in, obviously, but it covers an enormous amount of the actual calendar. Daytime errands, a casual dinner where you want to look like you tried without looking like you tried, festivals, that weird in between season when it’s not cold enough for a coat but a cardigan won’t cut it. My colleague Priya wore hers to three different weddings last summer, all with entirely different dresses, and nobody once mentioned it looked repeated. That’s the real test. Buy the right one and you’ll forget you’re rewearing it at all.

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